Transforming My Dull Laundry Room into a Stylish Dog Washing Station

Home Project: Laundry Room

Welcome to my latest home improvement project journey! Today, I'm excited to share how I turned my uninspiring laundry room into a functional and chic dog washing station. With a little creativity and some DIY magic, I was able to breathe new life into this space and create a haven for both me and my furry friends.

Before:

Let's start with the before photos. My laundry room was, to put it bluntly, lackluster. The walls were painted a dull boring tan shade, the sink was outdated and too small to wash my pups in, the laundry machines were old and never got the clothes clean, the paint was chipping in places, and the countertops were a gross outdated tile. It was a space that kind of served its purpose but lacked personality and charm. It wasn’t a space I wanted to spend any time in, and we wanted to make it serve multiple uses: Laundry, Storage, and a Dog Washing Station without breaking the bank.

Products Used:

Before diving into the transformation process, let me introduce you to the MVPs (Most Valuable Products) that helped bring my vision to life: (Please Note: These include some Amazon Associate Links for the products we used. WBC receives a tiny portion of sales from Amazon)

1. Wallpaper: I chose a vibrant and eye-catching floral peel and stick wallpaper to add a pop of color and pattern to the walls. It instantly brightened up the space and set the tone for the entire room. You can find it here on Amazon, and it is super easy to install yourself.

2. Sink: Say goodbye to the old, dingy sink and hello to the sleek and modern dog washing station. I opted for a deep stainless steel sink. It is not easy finding a sink that is both long and super deep. This one is 12” deep and 30” wide, and is perfect for my pups.

3. Wood Countertops: To add warmth and texture to the room, I installed custom faux wood countertops from IKEA. Not only are they beautiful to look at, but they also provide a durable surface for all my laundry and dog grooming needs.

4. Faucet: We wanted a simple faucet with the retractable nozzle for easy dog washing, but it was also important to have the handheld off button for easy pausing. This $79 faucet was on sale for $39 on Amazon, and is perfect!

5. Dog Grooming Loop: This is key for a successful wash in our house. These dog grooming loops make it super simple to keep your dog in the sink while they are getting clean. We secured it to the wall using an eye hook, and now we are ready to clean our dirty pups, without breaking our backs!

6. Washer/Dryer Combos: This has been an absolute game changer! Two large capacity washer/dryer combos from GE. I put the clothes in and come back to washed and dried clothes! No more needing to rewash or re-dry clothes. No more forgetting clothes in the washing machine. This has been a huge time saver. And, it has the amazing feature of automatically dispensing detergent and softener. Laundry has become considerably more tolerable with these machines.

Transformation Process:

Now, let's talk about the fun part – the transformation process! With the help of some handy tools and a lot of elbow grease, I was able to turn my laundry room into a space that I'm proud to show off.

1. Prep Work: The first step was to clear out the room and remove the old countertop and sink. Once the space was empty, I prepped the walls for wallpaper installation by filling in any cracks and sanding down rough surfaces. (Spackling Compound, Sanding Sponge)

2. Wallpaper Installation: With the walls prepped and ready to go, it was time to apply the wallpaper. This step required careful measurements and precise cutting to ensure a seamless finish. After a few hours of work, the wallpaper was up, and the transformation was already taking shape. (Razor Blade Pen)

3. Time to paint those drab lower cabinets. I wanted it to be a color in both the laundry machines themselves and in the wallpaper, and this dark grey is it! (I used a paint we already had on hand from my stairwell trim, it was the perfect color and helps tie the house together).

4. Sink, Faucet, and Countertop Installation: Next up was installing the new sink and countertops. This involved some plumbing work and carpentry skills, but with the help of my handy hubby, measuring multiple times, some liquid nails, and a bit of trial and error, we were able to get everything installed correctly. (Liquid Nails, Quick Clamps)

After:

And now, the moment you've all been waiting for – the after photos! Drumroll, please... Ta-da! The once-dull laundry room has been completely transformed into a stylish and functional dog washing station. The vibrant wallpaper adds personality to the space, while the sleek sink and wood countertops provide both beauty and practicality.

Final Thoughts:

In conclusion, I couldn't be happier with how my laundry room makeover turned out. By investing a little time and effort, I was able to create a space that not only serves a practical purpose but also brings a bit of joy to my not so joyful chores. Whether I'm doing laundry or giving my furry friends a bath, this room now feels a whole lot better.

Thank you for joining me on this journey, and I hope you feel inspired to tackle your own home improvement projects. Stay tuned for more adventures in DIY!

Wire Tip Vs. Solid Tip Burner

The difference between a wire tip/nib burner and a solid tip/nib burner primarily lies in their design and functionality.

Each type has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

Wire Tip/nib Burner:

• Design: Utilizes a pen-like device with tips made of a looped wire or a wire nib. On some pens, these tips can be changed out, allowing for a wide variety of tip shapes and sizes (more on interchangeable nibs at the end). They are usually thinner and easier to hold, as the grip is located closer to the nib, allowing the pen to feel like an actual pen making it ideal for comfort, especially if you are burning for longer periods at a time.

• Temperature Control: Wire tip burners typically offer more precise temperature control, which can be adjusted quickly. This allows for quicker and more detailed and varied shading techniques.

• Durability: Generally these pens are more delicate than a solid nib making them more susceptible to damage over time. Proper care and a lighter hand will help them last longer.

• Learning Curve: Might have a slightly steeper learning curve due to the delicacy of the wire tips and the precision required in handling them.

• Heat Up Time: Generally, wire tips heat up and cool down much more quickly than solid tips.

Solid Tip/Nib Burner:

• Design: Features a pen-like device with a solid brass or copper tip. The variety is usually more limited compared to a wire nib, the pen is thicker and clunkier to hold and the grip is usually further away from the nib making it slightly more difficult to control, especially if burning for longer periods of time).

• Temperature Control: Solid tip burners can be less precise in temperature control compared to wire tip burners, and adjustments may take longer to affect the tip temperature. However, because they are thick and solid, they do retain the heat making them ideal for large projects that require a lot of dark burning.

• Durability: Solid tips tend to be more durable than wire tips because they are less fragile and less susceptible to bending or breaking.

• Learning Curve: For beginners, solid tip burners might be easier to start with due to their durability and less delicate handling requirements.

• Heat Up Time: Solid tips generally take longer to heat up and cool down than wire tips, but, as stated earlier, they retain their hear better than a wire nib does.

Application:

• Wire Tip Burners are preferred for detailed art, fine shading, and where quick temperature adjustment is necessary.

• Solid Tip Burners are often used for more basic designs, outlines, and when learning the basics of pyrography as well as covering large areas with shading.

which one gets hotteR?

In terms of reaching a higher temperature, both types can be capable of very high temperatures suitable for pyrography. The key difference lies in how quickly they reach these temperatures and how precisely those temperatures can be controlled during the work.

Wire tip burners generally offer faster heat up times and more precise control, making it seem like they can get hotter faster, but in terms of maximum temperature capabilities, it's more about the specific equipment and its design rather than the tip type alone.

The maximum temperature that a wire tip burner or a solid tip burner can reach often depends more on the specific model and manufacturer rather than the type of tip itself.

However, there are some general characteristics related to how each type manages and conducts heat that can influence their operating temperatures:

Wire Tip Burners are designed for precise control and can reach very high temperatures quickly due to their thin wire construction, which has less mass to heat. This design allows for rapid heat transfer and adjustment, making them suitable for intricate work that requires changing temperatures for different effects. Because of their design, wire tip burners can effectively operate at both low and high temperatures, making them versatile for a range of detailed work.

Solid Tip Burners, on the other hand, have a larger mass in their tips, which means they may take longer to reach the desired temperature. However, once heated, they can retain heat longer due to the larger thermal mass. Solid tips can also reach high temperatures, but the rate of heat increase and the precision in temperature control may not match that of wire tip burners. The heat distribution over the solid tip is more uniform, which can be advantageous for certain types of shading and consistent line work.

Interchangeable nibs on wire tip burners:

Interchangeable nibs for wood burning tools allow artists to switch between different tip styles for various effects in their projects. These nibs can range from fine points for detailed work to larger, flat tips for shading or transferring images.

Pros: Interchangeability offers flexibility and creativity, enabling users to achieve a wide range of textures and depths in their art without needing multiple tools. This versatility is particularly valuable for artists looking to explore different techniques or work on projects that require both detailed and broad work.

Cons: Interchangeable nibs, while versatile, can have drawbacks such as requiring time to switch between nibs, which might interrupt the workflow. There's also a learning curve in mastering different nib types for optimal use. Additionally, the delicate nature of some wire nibs can lead to breakage if not handled with care. Exercise caution when tightening to ensure a complete connection, or your heating may not be even. High-quality interchangeable nibs might come with a higher initial cost, although they offer long-term flexibility and savings from not needing multiple dedicated tools.

In summary, we recommend starting out pyrography with a solid tip/nib burner (the Versa Tool from Walnut Hollow is our favorite! Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15).

These are a good basic tool to have in your toolkit and some artists never even upgrade to another tool…

If you plan on burning often, want a faster heat-up time, consider a wire tip burner. Check out What Wood Burning Tool Is Right For Me to learn more about choosing a new tool.

Woodcare 101: Preserving Your Pyrography Art

Pyrography is a beautiful art form that turns simple pieces of wood into timeless works of art. But like all forms of art, your pyrography projects are subject to the ravages of time, exposure, and wear.

Luckily, there are proven ways to protect your artwork and keep it looking as vibrant as the day you made it (or purchased it!).

Rules of thumb:

Keep Out of Moisture

• Especially if unfinished, any water (drips or splashes) can leave permanent marks on your wood. Even a sweaty fingerprint can linger on the surface.

• Enough general moisture can warp and bend the wood. The thinner your wood slice, the less moisture or humidity in the air it takes to start reshaping the wood.

• Long exposure to moisture can cause warping so hang your wood slices away from kitchen sinks, outdoors or any bathrooms…

• DO NOT place wood in dishwashers or let them soak in the kitchen sink

Keep Out Of Sunshine

• Sun will fade finished and unfinished wood slices. Keep out of direct sun to help prolong the inevitable.

• Burning deeply will help keep the artwork looking crisp. Shading and light burning will fade much faster.

Choose the Right Wood for your project

Your first line of defense against wear and tear starts with the type of wood you choose for your projects. Hardwoods like oak and birch generally last longer and are less susceptible to damage compared to softwoods like pine. If possible, go for kiln-dried wood, which has reduced moisture content, making it less prone to warping and cracking.

Check out this blog post for more information on wood: Best Wood for Pyrography

Sealing the Wood

Sealing your pyrography artwork with a finish adds a layer of protection against moisture, dirt, and UV rays. It also enhances the visual elements of your design by adding a glossy or matte finish.

If your artwork is going to be displayed outdoors or in a sunny location, consider using a UV-protective sealant. This helps in preventing the colors from fading and the wood from turning gray. For added moisture protection, particularly for outdoor pieces, use marine-grade sealants. Some resin’s also protect your wood from the elements.

Check out Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art for more on this topic.

keeping your cutting boards, wooden spoons and other functional art looking like it did on day one is possible with a little bit of maintenance.

To prevent discoloration, cracking, warping and fading, follow the instructions below:

• Keep away from excessive moisture (do not soak the product or run it through the dishwasher): hand wash only

• Wax or oil your products: the more you use your stuff, the more you will need to oil it. I recommend oiling once a month (or every other month) for products that are used daily. use the color and texture of the wood to judge when to oil; if it looks lighter and dry, it’s time. Oiling or waxing your wood will enhance the richness and prevent any cracking.

Handling and Cleaning

Always handle your pyrography art with clean hands to avoid transferring oils and dirt onto the wood surface. To clean your artwork, gently wipe it down with a soft, lint-free cloth. Avoid using water or cleaning products as they can penetrate the sealant and damage the wood.

Storage Tips

If you need to store your pyrography artwork:

• Keep it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

• Avoid storing it in damp or humid areas to prevent mold and warping.

• Consider wrapping it in acid-free paper for extra protection.

• Protect the corners of your art by wrapping with pieces of cardboard and taping them secure.

Your pyrography artwork is not just a piece of wood; it's a piece of you. Like any valuable object, it deserves to be treated with care and respect. Proper preservation techniques will help you enjoy your creations for many years to come.

Burning is Art. Art is Therapy.

While many people enjoy pyrography as a hobby or artistic pursuit, it can also be a powerful tool for promoting relaxation and mental well-being.

“Burning is art. Art is therapy”

Rachel Struass

Here are some reasons pyrography can be used to support mental health:

Stress Relief:

One of the benefits of pyrography is its ability to promote stress relief. When engaging in this activity, individuals are often able to disconnect from the stressors in their daily lives and focus solely on their creative pursuits. It can provide a distraction from everyday life. When you're focused on the activity, you may be less likely to ruminate on negative thoughts. This can help reduce stress levels and promote a sense of calm.

Mindfulness:

Pyrography also encourages mindfulness, which is the practice of being present and fully engaged in the moment. When working on a pyrography project, individuals must focus their attention on the details of the design, which can help them remain mindful and present. Wood burning requires us to go slower than we are used to with other mediums. This slowed down pace can induce a state of "flow," which is characterized by complete absorption in the task at hand.

Improved Mood:

Studies have shown that engaging in creative activities can improve mood and promote a sense of well-being. Pyrography is no exception. By providing a creative outlet, this art form can help individuals feel a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction, leading to improved mood.

Increased Self-Expression:

Pyrography allows individuals to express themselves in a unique and personal way. By choosing their own designs and colors, individuals can create pieces that are reflective of their personal style and preferences. Wood burning allowing you to express your emotions, thoughts, and ideas in a nonverbal way. This can help increase self-expression and boost confidence.

Sense of Community:

Here, at Wood Burn Corner we are all about community and sharing each others art with the world. Being part of Burn Club can provide a sense of belonging and social support, which can be beneficial for mental health. We support and healp each other through the ups and downs of learning a new skill and art form as well the trials and tribulations of owning a creative business. If you want to know how to get more involved in the community, click here!

Pyrography is an excellent activity for promoting relaxation, mindfulness, and mental well-being. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced artist, engaging in this activity can provide a range of mental health benefits, including stress relief, improved mood, and increased self-expression.

Now, pair up pyrography with radial symmetry and it becomes a whole new world of practicing mindfulness!

Radial Symmetry patterns, also commonly known as a Mandala, have been recognized by psychology as a therapeutic tool. Swiss psychologist Carl Jung said they’re like representations of our mind. He thought they made it easier for us to concentrate on, transform, and internalize subconscious thoughts. His belief was that we project our emotions and thoughts into the mandala designs.

“For me, a radial symmetry pattern, or a mandala inspired art piece, is the end result of a mindfulness journey.”

-Basia Chmielowic

These repetitive patterns are what I get at the end of a creative meditation, a zone out, a doodle session (whatever you want to call it!).

It is a form of meditation for me as the repetition of each pattern allows me not to think about the end result, but rather a focus on each small section at a time.

Repeating the same design helps me zone out and immerse myself in the moment.

Two ways to learn how to draw your own mandala designs:

1. Read:

Choose from two books full of mandala inspired patterns complete with written instructions on how to draw your own designs from scratch!

The Community Book of Templates offers designs by Basia and the community in a variety of themes as well as pyrography basics.

The Presence Bundle features Basia’s designs inspired by the art deco & art nouveau movements. No pyro information but links to resources to get you started.

These two items each include a radial symmetry guide and a set of their own unique designs to practice pyrography with. Either way, you will learn to create endless unique radial symmetry designs!

2. Watch:

A step-by-step video tutorial on DIY radial symmetry patterns and how to wood burn them:

$10.00

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Or the video tutorial on DIY radial symmetry patterns without the pyro part:

$8.00

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Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist

There are many surfaces one can burn on when it comes to pyrography. From egg shell to canvas, the world is your oyster! One rule of thumb to stick to is burning only on natural surfaces (versus human made or chemically treated items). Grab your Free Safety Guide to stay safe while burning. If you like experimenting, you can check out the blog post: Pyrography on Odd Objects.

The most common surface for pyrography is on wood!

Wood is usually readily available and comes in many different shapes, sizes, and colors It makes for a great canvas for wood burning. There are many different species of wood to choose from. Read on to learn more about wood or check out the Top 9 Wood Species to Burn On according to us and the wood burning community! There are also different ways wood reacts to burning on depending on how it was cut…

Always be mindful of what you are burning on. Some wood smoke is poisonous: check out the blog post about Which Woods to Avoid Burning On.

Wood Basics

Hardwood verus Softwood

The main difference between the two is not necessarily the density of the wood but rather the type of tree they come from.

Hardwoods are usually broad-leaved (deciduous) trees - the ones that loose their leaves every fall. Examples include ash, beech, birch, mahogany, maple, oak, teak, and walnut.

Softwoods are evergeen (coniferous) trees - the tree’s that have needles and cones that stay green year round. Examples include basswood, cedar, cypress, fir, pine, spruce, and redwood.

Generally, softwoods are cheaper because they grow faster and in abundance. Because of this, they are less durable so they are used more for building materials like lumber, plywood, and paper products. Hardwood is more common in high quality furniture, decks and flooring due to its hardness and durability.

The softer the wood is, it can be said that the easier it is to burn on. However, because of the way these tree’s woods differ, they make for very different canvases when burning on them using pyrography techniques…

Softwood tree’s (typically evergreens) create sap. Sap is not our friend in pyrography, especially when first learning the craft. Very often, common woods like pine are sappy and tricky to burn on. Although I have heard of some artists enjoying burning on pine, we would recommend trying a different wood for your first time.

WOOD Slices

The way a log is cut will change your canvas shape and the way your tool works on the wood’s surface.

As you can see here, the edge grain is the outer edge of your slice.

The end grain is the end of a log. This cut is vertical (when looking at a cut tree, like in this photo of the log on the ground) and typically gives you a circular wood slice with bark all around the edges (or none if trimmed off). The grain here is visible in rings.

A face grain cut is the log cut horizontally (on a log laying on the ground) which can give you square or rectangular wood slice canvases and only two edges will be covered in bark (or none if those are trimmed off). The wood grain is visible across the surface and generally spans horizontally across the wood. The wood is usually referred to as planks with this cut.

Wood Grain

and how it effects pyrography

A common way to explain the grain of wood is using a handful of straws. Renee of @it’sdavidandrenee brought this up at our Pyrography Summit as an example to explain the way finishes (ie. paints, stains etc…) react when applied depending on the way the wood is cut.

This is also true for pyrography. The grain of the wood can affect the flow of your tools on the surface, the texture and appearance of the burned lines, as well as the overall quality of the final artwork.

Imagine the straws as a log. When you cut an end grain piece, you will usually get a circular shape. This makes all the “straws holes” face up. They are porous and will suck in any liquids, stains, paints etc… Burning on this is slightly harder so generally you need more heat and a consistent speed.

Cut it the other way, face grain, and you get the length of the straws. Burning along the grain (following the grain, up and down in the photo to the right) is easier as the nib of the tool usually falls into a grain groove and burn along it. Burn against the grain (side to side) and you can get little blobs of burn, or stop marks as you move across - try turning your heat down and have more of a consistent speed. Look ahead for any grain lines so you can adjust your speed. Reduce your pressure and let the burner do the work as you just gently, but firmly, guide it.

So what wood is the best to burn on?

We have compiled a list of woods that we enjoy burning on for a variety of reasons. These include Amazon Associate links to great options for these particular wood varieties:

Best Wood for Pyrography

In a nutshell, here are our top 9 woods for pyrography:

1. Basswood (image to the right)

2. Cherry

3. Birch

4. Aspen

5. Walnut

6. Maple

7. Sourwood

8. Poplar

9. Cedar

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Want to learn more about pyrography?

Join the Burn Club Community

or check out this blog post: Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art

Finishing wood slice art can provide several benefits, including protection from environmental factors, enhancement of its natural beauty, increased durability, ease of cleaning, and personal preference.

By applying a finish, the wood slice art can be preserved for a longer period of time while also making it more resistant to scratches, dents, and other types of wear and tear. Wood burned marks and designs on the wood, especially shallow burns; such as shading, naturally fade with age and exposure to air, and particularly sunlight!

The finish can also bring out the unique grain patterns and color of the wood slice art, adding to its aesthetic appeal. It can also darken the wood considerably, sometimes even making wood burned designs non visible so make sure you test it on the back of the wood slice before committing to the whole piece.

When choosing the right finish for your project, there are a few things you should consider. 

Time, cost, use, and desired effect.

• How long do you want to wait for it to dry/cure? 

• How much money do you want to spend? 

• Will your item be used with food? 

• Will children be playing with the item? 

• Do you want it shiny or matte?

Here are 5 of our favorite finishes to use and why we like to use them:

No matter which finish you select, be sure to try it on your specific type of wood before you apply it to your finished art piece that you have worked so hard on.

The number of art pieces that have been ruined by finishes makes our heart hurt. Don’t let it happen to you: test before you apply! Each finish looks different on different types of wood. Always test!

Also, be warned, if your wood has spots or imperfections in it, the majority if finishes will cause them to stand out even more. This includes sanding lines (if you didn’t use a fine grit to finish smoothing our your wood, the lines from sandpaper may show).

Please note: These include Amazon Assoicate links for our favorite products. We receive a very small portion if you choose to purchase our recommendations.

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Food Safe Finishes

The most important thing to consider, or the thing to consider first, is will the wood slice be used with food? General finishes are not safe to be used on items like cutting boards and wooden utensils. Be sure you are using cutting board oil or cutting board wax, because many companies also have oils that are meant for furniture which is not food safe.

Key differences between oils and waxes:

• Penetration vs. Protection: Oil conditioners and finishing oils penetrate into the material to nourish and protect from within, whereas waxes primarily provide a protective surface coating.

• Appearance: Waxes can alter the appearance more significantly by adding a sheen or gloss, while oils and conditioners tend to enhance the natural look of the material.

• Maintenance: Wax finishes may need more frequent reapplication but offer more immediate surface protection against water and scratches. Oils and conditioners may provide longer-lasting nourishment but might not offer as strong a barrier against surface damage.

A combination of wax and oil can provide both protection and a natural, safe finish for wood. If using wax and oil finishes separately, apply the oils first to allow them to penetrate the wood, and then the wax to seal all that goodness in.

Here are our top two food safe oils we use:

Walrus Oil

This us one of our favourite companies, and one the community likes to use as well. Please note, they do not harm any animals!

Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil uses coconut oil, mineral oil, vitamin E and beeswax (be mindful of people who have a coconut allergy). Walrus cutting board oil is liquid and doesn't solidify. It adds a rich color (the more layers you put, the richer the colors and deeper the grain will be), it won't leave a funky taste, and goes on nice and smooth. You can finish it simply with their Wood Wax for Cutting Boards or even just use the the mentioned wax on its own.

Howards Products, Inc.

The Cutting Board Oil contains food grade mineral oil stabilized with Vitamin E, will not go rancid and is odourless and tasteless.

The one thing I will say about the Conditioner is that dirt and grime can collect a little more easily on it once finished, but the color it brings out of the wood, especially basswood, is gorgeous. This one is a mix of oil and wax.

The Wax is probably one of the best we have used for wood surfaces that are used with more wet items (i.e. pickles, cucumbers, tomatoes…) We found it to give the charcuterie boards the most protection from stains and marks.

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General Finishes

Minwax Fast Drying PolyURETHANE 

It is a good idea to use a spray version versus a brush-on version with pieces that have added mediums on it (like watercolour, gold leaf etc…) because wiping/brushing the finish can cause the color to spread or bleed or come off.

Choosing gloss, semi-gloss, or matte are all based on personal preference. Some of us love that shine, and some of us want it to be completely matte. A shiny glossed coat can help protect it from finger prints showing and dirt collecting but may show brush stroked more...

Water Based PolyCRYLIC 

We got a lot of responses with polyacrylic, and this is one we like to use as well. Polyacrylic spray-on and brush-on only comes as water based, but comes in satin, gloss, and high gloss sheens. It dries quickly, but can take a long time to fully cure, so be careful setting anything on top of something finished in polyacrylic. It is not as durable as polyurethane, but it isn't as toxic to your lungs or as smelly. It is fairly clear (get the crystal clear kind) but can get milky if you put it on too thick over a dark burn. Also, because it's fairly thin in viscosity and dries quickly, you can get brush strokes from the application that stay, It can be hard to get a really smooth finish.

Key Differences between a polyurethane and a polycrylic:

• Composition and Odor: Polyurethane can be oil or water-based, with oil-based versions having a stronger odor and longer drying times. Polyacrylic is water-based, with low odor and quick drying times.

• Appearance and Yellowing: Oil-based polyurethane deepens the color of the wood and may yellow over time, which is less desirable for light woods. Polyacrylic remains clear, making it suitable for maintaining the natural color of the wood.

• Durability and Application: While both finishes provide good protection, oil-based polyurethane is generally more durable and suitable for high-traffic areas. Polyacrylic is easier to apply, dries faster, and is better for quick projects or light to medium wear surfaces.
  

What we use for Longevity and ultimate protection: Resin

Art Resin

Epoxy Resin makes for a gorgeous, well-protected finish, just don't put it in the sun or moisture, it may cloud it depending on the brand.

We like Art Resin as our Resin of choice. Resin takes a while to cure, is super thick, and requires precise mixing (it has a super easy mixing guide online). You also need other tools like a level and a heated tool to remove bubbles and smooth it. Depending on how large your piece is, a lighter can work. For larger pieces, using a torch is much easier.

It can also be messy to work with because it will spill over the edges, but the finished look is gorgeous. Keeping it out of dust particles while its drying is crucial (we cover our slices with a simple cardboard box).

It makes whatever you burned or added to the slice pop! It resists yellowing from the sun but can eventually yellow over time.

You have to make a new batch every time you use it, and it is also a bit pricey, but it is gorgeous!

Fun Tip:

If you don't want the color of the wood to change, Aly of @alyoopsartistry suggests to use isolation coat  before adding your finish. This is awesome to use when you want the colour of your piece to stay as is before adding the resin.

Click here to read about why you may consider leaving your wood slice unfinished.

How to apply a finish to your wood slice:

Finishing wood burned art can help protect it and enhance its appearance. Here are some steps you can follow to finish your wood burned art:

1. Sand the wood: Use sandpaper to smooth the surface of the wood and remove any rough spots. Click here to see the best way to sand your slices. Having a smooth surface is crucial as the sanding lines will be more visible with majority of finishes added.

2. Remove dust: Clean the wood surface with a clean, dry cloth to remove any dust or debris.

3. Apply a wood conditioner or oil: This will help the wood absorb the finish evenly. Apply the wood conditioner or oil with a clean cloth and let it soak in for about 15 minutes before wiping off any excess.

4. Choose your finish: There are many types of finishes you can use on wood burned art, such as polyurethane, lacquer, or wax. Choose the finish that best fits your desired outcome.

5. Apply the finish: Apply the finish with a brush, foam brush, or cloth according to the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to apply an even coat and avoid drips.

6. Let it dry: Allow the finish to dry completely before handling the wood.

7. Apply additional coats: Depending on the type of finish, you may need to apply additional coats. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended drying time between coats.

8. Buff the finish: After the final coat has dried, use a clean cloth to buff the surface of the wood to a smooth and shiny finish.

Following these steps will help ensure that your wood burned art is protected and looks great for years to come.

When to re-finish your wood art

In general, it is recommended to reapply a finish to wood art every 1-3 years to maintain its appearance and protect it from wear and tear. However, if the wood art is exposed to harsh conditions such as direct sunlight, high humidity, or frequent handling, you may need to apply a finish more often.

It's important to also keep an eye on the finish and look for signs of wear or damage such as cracking, peeling, or discoloration. If you notice any of these signs, it's time to refinish the wood art to prevent further damage.

Ultimately, the best way to determine how often you should finish your wood art is to monitor its condition regularly and apply a new coat of finish as needed to maintain its appearance and protection.

Functional wood art, such as cutting boards, serving trays, and furniture, may require more frequent refinishing than decorative wood art since they are exposed to more wear and tear.

A Radial Symmetry eGuide, Colouring + Tracing Pages Bundle

This is a radial symmetry guide, collection of colouring sheets and patterns to trace providing a gateway to a world of mesmerizing patterns, relaxing mindfulness and endless creativity.

Designed to help both novices and seasoned artists explore the captivating realm of radial symmetry, this ebook guides you step-by-step through the creation of intricate and balanced designs. The first half of the book dives into all the details from making a grid, to 7 different creative variations of a circular pattern.

The intention is to give you the knowledge and easy to follow instructions for you to continue making one-of-a-kind radial symmetry patterns using only a few basic tools.

And it also includes 3 outlines for you to practice on and doodle in along with a simple creativity exersize to get you going.

The second half of the book has 25 original patterns for you to colour and reimagine. Inspired by the art deco and art nouveau artistic movements, the intention with these finished patterns is the get you inspired, relaxed and also hone in your artistic skills.

The patterns also come in a traceable format so that you can trace with whatever medium you choose and make the design even more personal:

Grab your favourite colouring tools, let your imagination soar, and get ready for a transformative artistic journey!

Instant download incudes a .PDF document with:

- Lifetime access to google drive folder with 56 individual .PDF and .PNG templates for you to download anytime

- Lifetime access to google drive folder with a .PDF guide teaching you how to draw your own patterns from scratch.

- Links to resources for transferring the designs onto wood and using pyrography to burn them onto the surface, how to wood burn and more!

Download a digital copy to easily resize any design in the book and wood burn onto a wood slice using the art of pyrography!

Links to all the resources you need are included.

Embracing the New Year: A Guide to Setting Goals

As the New Year approaches, the air fills with a sense of renewal and opportunity. It's a time when many of us reflect on the past year's journey and set our sights on what lies ahead. Setting goals for the New Year is a tradition as old as time, serving as a catalyst for personal growth and achievement. But how do we set goals that inspire us, push us forward, and are realistically achievable?

A great podcast to listen to is by Dr. Andrew Huberman, a neuroscientist and professor, who makes goal setting less intimidating and more impactful. Take a listen here: The Science of Setting & Achieving Goals and read on!

Here's a guide, with the help of our own experiences, Burn Club Plussers experiences, and Hubermans expertise to setting meaningful goals for the New Year:

Reflect on the Past, Envision the Future

Before setting new goals, take a moment to reflect on the past year. Really block out time here from all distractions and find yourself a quiet spot to think. What were your successes and setbacks? What lessons did you learn? Reflection provides valuable insights that can shape your future goals.

Envision what you want the upcoming year to look like. Imagine the accomplishments, the personal growth, and the happiness you wish to achieve. Huberman emphasizes the importance of having clear, defined goals. He suggests visualizing not just the end goal but the process required to achieve it. This mental rehearsal can prepare the mind and body for the tasks ahead and increase the likelihood of success.

Personally, this exersize of visualization really helped clarify the larger goals and all its smaller steps. It can be in the form of a mental exersize, a Pinterest collage, or even a magazine collage. Whatever works for you to really see what you want clearly.

Set SMART Goals

SMART goals are Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, and Time-bound. This framework helps in setting clear and attainable objectives. For example, instead of saying, "I want to be healthier," a SMART goal would be, "I want to exercise for 30 minutes, five days a week, and eat five servings of fruits and vegetables daily."

Break Bigger Goals into Actionable Steps

Large goals can often seem daunting. Break them down into smaller, manageable tasks. If your goal is to write a book, start with writing a certain number of words each day or outline one chapter per week. Small steps lead to big achievements over time and provide the opportunity to celebrate along the way!

Dopamine, a neurotransmitter associated with pleasure and motivation, plays a significant role in goal setting and achievement. Huberman advises understanding how to manage and optimize dopamine levels through rewarding progress, breaking down goals into smaller, achievable tasks, and maintaining a balance between challenge and reward.

He also discusses how moderate stress can be beneficial in the context of goal setting. It can enhance focus and performance, acting as a motivator. However, managing stress levels is crucial, as too much stress can be counterproductive. Along with self care and life balance, breaking up goals can be a great way to manage the stress and not overwhelm oneself with a large goal.

Hold Yourself Accountable

Keep track of your progress and celebrate small victories along the way. Consider maintaining a journal or using an app to monitor your journey towards your goals. Or if you, like me, prefer using the old fashion pen and paper, try an accountability tracker. Not only is it satisfying to mark off each day’s goals, but it is also a visual reminder of your progress

Click here for the radial symmetry Trackers we use (like you see here).

Dr. Andrew Huberman emphasizes the importance of strategic goal setting and accountability. According to Huberman, sharing goals with others can sometimes trigger a premature sense of accomplishment, reducing the drive to actually achieve the goal. He suggests a more nuanced approach: share your goals selectively with those who can offer constructive feedback or support, rather than seeking widespread validation.

Huberman also highlights the value of internal accountability, where setting clear, measurable objectives and regularly reviewing progress can significantly enhance motivation and likelihood of success. He encourages individuals to leverage the brain's reward system by celebrating small wins along the way, which can sustain momentum and foster a sense of achievement throughout the journey toward larger goals. By understanding the neurological and psychological aspects of goal setting and accountability, individuals can tailor their approach for maximum effectiveness and personal fulfillment.

Prioritize Self-Care

While pursuing goals, remember to prioritize your well-being. Set goals that encourage a balanced life, incorporating elements of work, rest, play, and personal growth.

In his podcast, Huberman speaks about creating an environment conducive to success. This includes managing distractions, ensuring adequate sleep for brain function, and considering the timing of tasks aligned with individual circadian rhythms.

Self-care isn't just about relaxation; it's about doing what's necessary to maintain your mental, emotional, and physical health.

Embrace Flexibility

Life is unpredictable, and your path to achieving goals may need to adjust. Be flexible and open to change. It's important to remember that the path to any worthwhile achievement is often laden with obstacles and setbacks. Rather than viewing these as failures, consider them part of the learning and growth process.

If an approach isn't working, pivot and try something new. Flexibility helps you stay resilient and persistent.

Stay Positive and Patient

Goal setting is an optimistic endeavor. Stay positive and patient with yourself. Some goals will require more time and effort than anticipated. Embrace the journey, learn from the process, and keep pushing forward.

One thing Basia loves to do is create affirmations that she can personalize using Canva. She have them show up on her phone so she can be reminded about her goals, ambitions or just to provide a little motivation everyday to keep at it. Check out her blog post on How to Create a Set of Themed Affirmations in Canva.

As you embark on this New Year, remember that setting goals is about more than just listing desires—it's about creating a roadmap for a fulfilling year ahead. It's about understanding where you are, deciding where you want to be, and taking proactive steps to get there. With thoughtful planning, commitment, and a positive mindset, you're well on your way to making this New Year a truly transformative one.

Remember also that goal setting isn't only confined to the start of a new year; it's a beneficial practice that can be undertaken at any time. Engaging in goal setting sessions throughout the year allows for continuous growth, adaptation to change, and the ability to seize the moment whenever inspiration strikes.

Happy goal setting!

Donate to One Tree Planted - 2023

One thing that is really important to us, here at Wood Burn Corner, is giving back!

Each year we give back to our community in as many ways as possible. We donate our time, products, money, and also love sharing information for free with our community.

THIS YEAR (2023) WE ARE PROUD TO ANNOUNCE THAT 1,100 TREES HAVE BEEN PLANTED BECAUSE OF OUR LITTLE BUSINESS.

@onetreeplanted is such an incredible organization that takes $1 and plants 1 tree with it, which means, because of you all, Wood Burn Corner planted 10,000 trees this year. TEN THOUSAND! (That’s like a mini forest! )

We got word that our specific donation is being used to plant 10,000 fruit trees in India, where not only will it help with air quality, but will also provide food and jobs for people of that region.

Thanks to all your support and purchases, we were able to give our largest donation to date to the non-profit organization, One Tree Planted!

One Tree Planted makes it easier for both individuals and businesses to give back to the environment, create a healthier climate, protect biodiversity, and help reforestation efforts.

Here is how it works:

Trees play such an integral role in our World, and we want to be part of the solution.

DID YOU KNOW?

Every 1.2 seconds, man destroys an area of forest as big as a football field. This is why we feel the need to give back to the trees that make it so we can create our art and why we choose to use wood from sustainable sources.

Click here for some more interesting facts about trees and the impact of deforestation around the world.

WANT TO HELP THE ENVIRONMENT?

How to Make a Keyhole Hanger by Hand

One way to hang your wood slice art is by using a keyhole hanger (also known as a mounting slot), which allows the slice to be hung flush against the wall.

In this guide, I will provide step-by-step instructions on how to make a keyhole hanger on a wood slice.

By following these simple steps, you can create a unique and personalized way to display your wood slice art.

This method uses a hand held router which you can borrow from someone or rent from your local tool library if you have one! You can also use a router table if you have one.

Please note, any links below are affiliate links to the exact tools I am actually using and love!

Materials needed:

• Your wood slice

• Pencil and eraser

• Measuring tape

• Clamps or easy DIY guide: a straight edged scrap wood piece and nail gun or hammer and nails

• Sandpaper

• Router with a Tipped Keyhole Bit:

Wood comes in all different sizes, thicknesses and shapes.

Measure the router bit with your wood slice to ensure the length is correct and doesn't go through your slice.

How to make a keyhole hanger on a wood slice

Step 1: Determine the Placement of the Keyhole Hanger

Decide where you want to place the keyhole hanger on the back of the wood slice. Make sure it is centered and level. Use a pencil to mark the spot.

I like to measure 2 inches from the top of all my wood slices to ensure there is enough space for the hole and enough wood left at the top to keep the hole strong. If it is too close to the edge, the wood can split or crack.

Measuring a square or rectangle piece is easy, but rounds are a little trickier, especially if they are imperfect circles, ovals or other shapes…

My trick to measure a wood slice that is not a square or rectangle:

This is not a 100% exact method. Wood rounds are often imperfect and come in all kinds of unique shapes and sizes. What I like about the keyhole hanger technique is that when the slice is hanging, it’s flush against the wall. So even if your measurements were off slightly, the friction of the wood on the wall allows for some forgiveness in the levelling and you can tweak it a bit once it is up. For really stubborn pieces that you may have mismeasured and they really don’t hang level, you can apply a tiny amount of double sided sticky tape or even sticky tack to the back side to make it more level. Do not try adjusting the keyhole by making it bigger or longer as the structure of the wood will deteriorate when manipulated enough times… Also, know that any sticky substances on wood will stain in, but this will be on the back of the wood piece.

First measure the largest point across your wood slice.

Then take a square tool and roughly eyeball the level. I use the edge of the table that I am working as a guide, lining up the bottom of my square to the edge.

Once I draw a line up, 2 inches away from the tops, I test how it hangs before I drill a hole by holding it up on the mark I just made and roughly seeing if it hangs level.

step 2: make a quick guide (optional) and clamp down your slice

This DIY guide is optional because you can essentially free-hand the hole. I like to make the guide because it only takes seconds and then keeps my holes nice and straight.

Start by grabbing any scrap wood (ensure it has a straight edge - this edge will be your guide) and attach it to your artwork. I am nailing it in temporarily but you can use clamps if you do not have a nail gun. Clamps get in the way a little which is why I prefer to nail it, If your wood slice is big enough, you can hang the clamps over the edge of the table, or clamp the guide AND the slice to the table for maximum stability.

First, I measure the distance from the furthest edge at the top, and then the bottom - this ensures that it’s level.

Make sure to measure for the size of your tool.

Tip: Once I measure everything out, before I nail down my guide, I line up the router to where I am about to drill the hole just to double check my measurements!

I used a 23 gauge headless finishing nailer because the nails are small and short which make them easy to take off once complete and you don’t have a big nail hole after you take off your guide. You can simply hammer in two temporary nails (two so the guide stays in one spot - one at the top and one at the bottom of your scrap wood). Ensure that the nail you choose will not go through your wood slice.

Once my guide is on, I clamp everything down to the table.

step 3: drill your hole

Now comes the fun part, drilling the hole.

Using the router, I line up my bit against my guide and over the mark I made on the wood slice and I drill a hole, but only straight down at first.

I like to slightly lean the edge of the tool on the guide, coming in on a bit of an angle so the weight and pressure of the tool is on the guide, not me trying to hold it up in position.

Once you've drilled your hole, your tool will lay flat on the wood.

The hole should be at least 1/4 inch deep so a nail can fit snugly in the slot, just make sure your wood is thick enough so the hole doesn’t go through.

With the bit inside the hole, move the router up, away from you, very slowly to create the nook for the nail to sit in.

Move slowly.

Once you have gone up about 3/4 of an inch, turn off your tool, wait for it to stop and remove the tool from the hole by carefully sliding the bit down and out of the hole at the bottom.

Step 4: Sand the Wood Slice

Use sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges around the drilled hole and the wood slice.

And voila! You made a keyhole hanger!

You can now hang your art, flush to a wall anywhere you like by sliding the wood slice onto a screw. Adjust the wood slice until it is level and centered on the screw.

DIY Wood Burned Plant Marker

Wood burned garden or plant markers can be a fun and creative way to label your plants in your garden outdoors or indoors.

This project took me about 20-30 minutes for 4 markers and was completely free!

Edward, over here, is one of my favourite plants. He likes to be watered from the bottom (I put him into a bowl of water for 15-20 minutes instead of pouring water from the top). When I am away for an extended period of time, this marker helps out the person who is coming to water my plants, know that he likes to be watered in a certain way.

I wanted something quick and free because wood exposed to natural elements, like the sun, over long periods of time will make the burning fade. Also, consistent moisture will cause the wood to decay over time so choose a marker that doesn’t break the bank and keep your design simple. The markers may not last outdoors more than one season, especially if they are really thin. Indoor markers will last much longer.

Below are the steps to make your own:

Materials:

• The marker

• Wood burning tool

• Pencil

• Design or pattern (optional)

• Sandpaper

Steps to making your own garden markers:

1. Select your marker of choice

I chose to work with sticks that I found in my backyard because I was going for a natural look, and I wanted this project to be free and easy. If you prefer a more finished look, you can find pre-made mini wooden stakes/markers in all shapes and sizes online. Above all, make sure that whatever surface you choose, it is untreated and unfinished.

Choosing the right stick:

• Make sure to choose branches and sticks that have dried out thoroughly and have been broken off the tree/bush for a while. Do not take branches that can bend easily or directly off a tree. This is green wood and should not be burned on (see here for a list of woods to avoid burning on). Green wood refers to wood that has been freshly cut from a tree and has not been dried or seasoned yet. It contains a high amount of moisture and can create a lot of smoke, will burn much slower and will not burn consistently and crisply.

• Choose a stick that is free from any major knots or defects because creating a flat surface is difficult when the stick is wonky.

• Keep in mind the size and thickness of your stick. You can use a saw or pruning shears if you need to trim the stick to length. I just broke my stick with my hands because it was super dry and small enough and then I sanded the broken edges down a tiny bit to make it look a little cleaner.

2. Create a flat surface

I used a regular knife to carve a flat section on the top of the stick. It’s much easier to carve when the knife is sharp. If you do not have any sharpening stone or strop to sharpen your knife, the bottom of a ceramic mug will do in a pinch. This method can help to hone the blade's edge slightly, but it won't actually sharpen it by removing material from the blade. This method is perfect for this mini project but not ideal for larger projects.

How to sharpen a knife using a ceramic mug:

To use the bottom of a mug for honing, turn the mug upside down and hold it firmly in your hand, pointing away from your body. Then, angle the knife blade at a 20-degree angle against the unglazed, rough part of the bottom of the mug. Draw the blade down the surface of the mug, applying light pressure and maintaining the same angle throughout the process. Repeat this motion several times on each side of the blade. After sharpening, test the blade by slicing through a piece of paper or card stock.

Carving your stick

Safety should always be a top priority when carving a stick. Always use a sharp knife, cut away from your body, and wear protective gloves if necessary.

Start by making small cuts and removing thin shavings from the stick.

Work slowly and carefully, and ALWAYS cut away from your body to avoid accidents.

Sanding your surface

Once you have an area that is fairly smooth and the size you want, sand the area to remove any roughness or splinters. Sanding it smooth will make the burning process easier and more crisp so don’t skip this step.

3. Create your design

Using a pencil, lightly sketch the name of your plant, herb or vegetable (or whatever design you want to burn onto the wood). This will act as a guide for your wood burning tool. You do not have to follow it exactly, and can erase any lines you adjusted mid burn. Drawing it out first helps to find the centre of the area.

4. Burn it

For smaller wood pieces that are tricky to hold, use tape to hold them down while you burn.

Heat up your wood burning tool and select the tip you want to use for your design.

Use your safety gear (check out our safety tips and free downloadable guide here).

Start Burning. Carefully trace over your pencil sketch to burn the design onto the wood. Take your time and go slowler than you think you should and let the burner do the work. Turn down the heat if you feel like you are not in control.

I like to burn deep and hard so that my piece lasts longer. This causes some over-burn or glowing lines so I use sandpaper after I burn to get rid of those. The sandpaper also helps get rid of the pencil marks. Click here if you want more tips on getting rid of leftover marks or fixing mistakes.

Wipe off any residual ash or debris from the wood with a clean, dry cloth (microfibre works best) or an old clean toothbrush works too!

Sanding will remove some of the burn marks so go in and touch up any spots that got removed when sanding until you are happy with the final product.

5. finish it (optional)

Applying beeswax to you garden markers can help to protect it from moisture, weathering, and insects. Beeswax is a natural wax that has water-resistant properties.

On you cleaned surface, use a soft cloth to apply a thin layer of melted beeswax, rubbing it in with circular motions until the entire surface is covered. Allow the beeswax to dry and harden, and then buff the surface of the marker with a clean, dry cloth to bring out the shine. Beeswax can be reapplied as needed to maintain the protective coating on the garden marker.

6. Enjoy it

Finally, place your wood burned garden markers in your garden next to the plants they are labeling or in your potted plants indoors.

That's it! Hope this inspires you to make some fun, functional and personalized art!

Want to learn more about pyrography??

Check out this blog post: Start Here if You Are New To Wood Burning

And grow with the community: Subscribe to our free Burn Club Newsletter and join Burn Club+, a place where you can ask questions, and get the full answers, meet twice a month to burn with your fellow pyros and so much more.

What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

Choosing a burner can be quite difficult. There are so many brands, so many options, so many nibs and it can all be a bit confusing. When you are looking into a wood burning tool you need to think about a couple things.

1. Price

2. Use

3. Style

Price - What will my money get me?

Wood burning tools can range in price from $15-$200+, and more money does not necessarily mean you will get a better burn.

I like to think that there is 4 different levels in price.

$15: These are value tools, that usually just have an on/off switch. Recommend only if you are doing one project. They will come with several nib options but take some time to heat up and are a bit bulky to hold. This one from Walnut Hollow has been tried, tested and true. Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

If you can invest a little more money, especially if you want to continue pyrography, we recommend going up, at least one more level.

$30: These are usually your solid-nibbed wood burning tools with temperature control. They usually come with several interchangeable nibs, are portable, but take a little while to heat and cool. Still slightly bulky, but for learning, exploring and understanding the art of pyrography, this price range is what you should be looking for.

Be weary of anything around this price or cheaper, especially off of amazon…

We love the Walnut Hollow Versa tool. This was our first burner, and after trying many many others, this is still one we recommend for beginners and large projects the most! Click here to get yours and make sure to checkout with 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

$80 to $120: These are considered professional level machines, or entry level wire nib burners. Most come with interchangeable nibs. They may be lower quality wire nibs, when they are interchangeable, that may need some gentle tweaking before use or with a limited number of nibs, but this option is good if you want to learn what nib you like best. The grip will be more pen-like, it will have decent temperature control, and it will heat and cool faster than the previous tools. They are lighter weight machines and are not meant for heavy use.

Again, we love Walnut Hollow. Click here to get yours and make sure to checkout with 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

$120+: These are your professional machines. These are sturdy, heavy duty, professional equipment. A lot of the time you will need to buy the machine separate from the pens/nibs. Many of the nibs are hand formed. There are options for pen choices(fixed pen and interchangeable options) and tons of individual options for nib choices (flow, spade, writing, shading transfer hot stamps). Some companies will customize nibs, and some offer such a wide range you wont need customization. (looking at you Razertip). The grip of these machines will be pen-like, it will have excellent temperature control(in some cases precise to the last degree), it will heat and cool in seconds, and in general these machines will reach much higher temperatures. Some great companies, our top three, include Razertip, Tekchic, PJL Enterprises.

Razertip even has a little starter pack with 6 nib options, the tools you need to change them up and keep them clean, plus. quick start book to her you started. Click here to see it!

Use - How will I use my wood burning tool?

ONE TIME USE - If you are planning on using a wood burning tool for just one project, then go ahead and get yourself a single temperature, solid-nibbed value wood burning tool. A tool like the Walnut Hollow Value Tool is around $15 (Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15). It comes with several nib options and you will be able to complete your project.

HOBBIEST and PROFESSIONALS - If you plan on doing more than one project, or very large projects, then we highly recommend that you get yourself a solid-nibbed, temperature-controlled woodburning tool. The Walnut Hollow Versatool is our favorite. This tool is so versatile, inexpensive (around $30 - get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15), comes with a bunch of useful nibs, and works like a dream. This could easily be the only tool you buy. The level of detail that you can achieve with this one tool is astounding. Just go look at the #versatool to see what I mean. There are many professional wood burning artists who only use this tool.

PROFESSIONALS - If you are burning more than a couple times a week, then you should invest or start saving up to invest in a proper professional machine. These machines will decrease your time wasted waiting for you tools to heat/cool, will allow you to have a more ergonomic grip while working, they will allow for quicker nib changes, and will just speed up your whole process. They are worth the investment. Some great companies include Razertip, Tekchic, PJL Enterprises.

STATIONARY OR MOBILE - Will you have a dedicated wood burning station, or will you be on the move? This is something to consider when choosing the right burner for you. Some do not pack or travel well, while others are made to be portable.

Style - Solid vs Wire Nibs

SOLID: A Solid-nibbed or solid-tipped burner has a long heated shaft, with nibs that screw directly into the shaft. Your hand placement is further away from the surface being burned, and is generally a thick grip that will take some getting used to. They can come in temperature-controlled and single temperature varieties. These range from $15-$30.

Now, a solid-nibbed burner, like the WH Versatool does have its drawbacks. It takes a little while to heat up and cool down, the grip is thick and requires your hand to be far away from the surface you are burning (can take some getting used to), and the docking station is not very solid. But… this compact machine can burn! It’s great for covering large areas too as a solid nib burner will retain its heat better than a wire burner. We recommend this tool, or something similar be in every wood burning artists tool bag.

There is also an amazing nib called the Transfer Nib. It is amazing for transferring images to wood precisely and quickly. Check out this blog post on Using Heat To Transfer Images Onto Wood.

WIRE: A wire nib burner, or often called a professional burner, generally has a more pen-like appearance with a wire at the end that heats up. Your hand placement is much closer to the surface burning. The machine heats and cools quickly. These usually have a solid docking station, great temperature control, and a wide range of nib options.

The different nibs can be changed in a variety of ways for these wire nib burners.

1. WHOLE PEN/FIXED NIB - Some people prefer to have the entire pen switch out. It does decrease the chances of having connection issues, because changing nibs is so easy. These pens with a fixed nib usually just plug in quite quickly and easily. This is a more expensive option than the interchangeable nib, but more convenient and they tend to last longer than the interchangeable nib pens.

2. INTERCHANGEABLE NIB - This can be done in a couple ways. Sometimes the wire nib is in its own housing, and the housing switches out. Other times, you will fine that you are unscrewing the actual wire, and replacing it with a different wire. The ones in their own housing can be changed quicker and easier with less issue. I have found that when you are changing out just the wire, you need to be careful to make sure that all the connections are solid or your burner wont heat properly. Always test your temperature after switching out nibs.

Choose your Burner

Now that you know the different options, and what you should consider, it’s time to choose a burner. Here are some burners that we have personally held in our hands:

Here are some websites and Amazon Affiliate Links to the companies I trust: (Wood Burn Corner receives a small portion if you purchase through these links, or look below to visit the individual website’s of each manufacturer.)

Walnut Hollow:

Click here to visit Walnut Hollow’s site and below are our two favourite Walnut Hollow tools:

The Walnut Hollow Versatool

and The Creative Wood Burner.

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Tekchic:

Check out Tekchic - this machine is powerful, compact and has a decent grip on the pen.

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TruArt:

This machine is also really reliable and gets nice and hot. A bit thicker on the hand grip but works well.

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PJL Enterprises - Optima 1:

Visit PJL Enterprises to see their collection of tools. These pens are more pen-like, machine gets hot and the switches are very satisfying.

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Razertip:

Take a look at the Razertip’s options and their wide selection. They have new digital burners with a bit of a higher heat, but even their older models are one of our favourites.

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Want to learn more about Wood Burning and improve pyrography Skills?

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out to us!

Come join our community of pyrographers in Burn Club where we share tips, tricks, pyro resources, and free templates and coupon codes for pyro materials and accessories.

Or you can learn on your own at your own pace from home with The Complete Wood Burning Toolkit.

Also check out these other informative blog posts:

Pricing your Art

160 Ideas of What to Wood Burn Next

Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning