One of the most common and heartbreaking frustrations in pyrography is when a piece that once looked rich and beautiful starts to fade over time — even when you've sealed it! I recently got a message from a fellow pyrographer, Mary, who's been burning for years but noticed her pieces fading within 6–12 months, even when they're kept out of direct sunlight. She’s using UV-protective Varathane (both oil- and water-based), applying 2–3 coats, and still watching her art disappear.
So, what’s going on?
Well, first just know that you are not alone. One thing every pyrographer learns eventually — sometimes the hard way — is that wood is alive, even after it's cut. It breathes, it shifts, it absorbs, and it ages. No matter how careful you are, no matter what finish you use, wood will change over time. And so will your artwork.
Why? Because wood is porous, hygroscopic (a material that can absorb moisture from the air), and reactive. It contracts and expands with the seasons. UV light, even in small amounts, can affect its color. Finishes can deepen, amber, or dull. And depending on the species, the burn may sink into the grain or slowly soften as the wood moves.
Sometimes these changes are visible (especially with thinner pieces of wood - they may bow slightly) and sometimes you wouldn’t have a clue that wood can actually shift so much.
This doesn’t mean you should stop burning — it means you’re working with a living canvas. Understanding how wood changes helps you anticipate, adapt, and choose the right methods to give your work the longest life possible.
Let’s explore the possibilities and what you can try to prevent fading:
1. Burn Depth and Darkness Matters
If the burn is very light or surface-level, it may not stand up well, even under varnish. Try burning a little deeper and darker on test pieces — even a small difference can help the image hold up over time.
To be honest, this is ALWAYS my main advice.
Especially when you want the art to be finish-free, try to burn deep.
The way I burn my art is more like carving into the wood, I don’t do very much traditional shading. I generally use linework with my chisel tip.
And to create darkness or for covering larger areas, I love to stipple because its super satisfying and allows me to go deep into the wood.
However, your style is your style and the piece might have no other option (especially in realistic burns, or portraitures and such) than to shade using other techniques to achieve a smooth gradient shade (or tonal shade) and so we move on to other options below.
2. Know Your Finish
Not all finishes are created equal.
Most finishes (especially water-based ones) and most wood species (especially dark toned ones) can soak into the wood and the burn, slightly diluting or softening the edges of your burn marks. This can reduce the crispness and contrast you worked hard to create — especially if your burn was on the lighter side. Check out this isolation coat trick to prevent this first step in protecting your burned art from fading: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood
Glossy finishes (even clear ones) can reflect light in a way that makes the burn appear lighter or less defined, depending on the viewing angle. This effect can be stronger on lighter woods or if the piece is seen under strong lighting.
Always test first and check out this post for finishing your artwork: Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art
3. Pre-Sealing or Fixative Tricks
A light coat of Krylon UV Archival spray (or even a cheap matte clear coat) before applying a heavy varnish can help preserve the integrity of the burn. This acts almost like a “fixative” — protecting the delicate details before the thicker varnish goes on.
As mentioned in 2., Isolation Coat can also be used as a pre-seal: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood. It creates a clear, non-reactive barrier that protects your burn from the final varnish soaking in or shifting tones. Works well under both water-based and oil-based varnishes and can also be used on top of other mediums, like watercolour.
4. Wood Type and Prep
Soft woods like pine or basswood absorb burns differently than hardwoods like maple or cherry. Make sure your surface is well-sanded and dust-free, and consider experimenting with harder woods if fading is a frequent issue (or if piece will be exposed to harsh elements).
The way wood is dried before you burn on it can make a big difference in how it performs over time. Kiln-dried wood is heated in a controlled environment to quickly remove moisture. It’s more stable than green or freshly cut wood and less likely to warp or crack after burning. This makes it a common choice for pyrography, especially for pre-cut blanks.
But here's the catch: kiln-drying doesn’t eliminate all movement. Wood still responds to its environment. Humidity changes, heat, and light will continue to affect it, even after it's been dried.
Air-dried wood, on the other hand, is dried slowly and naturally over months (or years), which some woodworkers believe helps the wood retain more of its natural character. But it can also be a bit less predictable — and if it’s not fully cured, it might still release moisture or warp as it continues to dry post-burning.
But, no matter how it’s dried, wood will still expand and contract, and that motion can subtly affect your burn lines or the way finishes sit on the surface.
5. Time and Environment
This piece here was hung outside and battled the intense Canadian weather for about 6 years now, which is not actually too bad!
It was finished with resin - and even with the strongest kind of finish, it still aged greatly.
This piece however, was done around the same time and is as crisp as day one:
It’s been in my studio, up on a shelf out of the sun…
But even pieces kept out of sunlight may still be exposed to UV light or fluctuating humidity levels but your best bet is to keep it our of direct sunlight and out of moisture (no bathrooms or near kitchen sinks), no matter how it’s finished.
Store or hang your art in dry, stable environments when possible, and educate customers on ideal display conditions.
Have your own tip or experience with fading burns?
Drop a comment or or join the conversation in The Burn Club!